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 Terroir Australis: why some areas grow better wine than others
 
 By: Darby Higgs   Page 1 of 2  next >> 

Terroir is a word that gets bandied about a lot lately. You need to know what it means if you want to know if the speaker or writer knows what she or he is talking about.

Terroir is a French word which does not translate directly into English. It is derived from “terra” the Latin word for earth that gives us English words such as terrain and territory. But terroir is a word that has much deeper meanings than just earth.

The best definition I can find is that it refers to the totality of the environmental factors which influence viticulture at a particular site. The obvious factors are soil and climate, but it is worthwhile digging a little deeper; topography and hydrology are also important.

The French have developed the idea of terroir in tandem with their Appellation Controllee system. Terroir is based on the idea that great wines can only be made in those areas (mainly in France) where there is a long tradition of winemaking. The vines, and even the winemaking itself, are integral to the natural environment.

Like most deciduous plants the grapevine is most at home in the temperate zones. A distinct annual seasonal pattern seems to be required.

Climate is the difference between grapes capable of making high quality wine, and those that can only just pass muster. When discussing the different characteristics of wine regions the first question we need to answer is “Is it a cool or warm region?”

The overall temperature data of a region is often represented by the heat summation scale. The number of ‘degree days’ of a region is calculated by adding up the amount that the temperature exceeds 10 degrees Celsius each day throughout the vine’s growing season. Heat summation doesn’t give you the complete picture but it is a good first check to see which grape varieties if any are suitable.

The heat summation for a few Australian wine regions are given below

Hobart, Tas 1017

Launceston, Tas 1156

Portland, Vic 1204

Healesville (for Yarra Valley, Vic) 1251

Eden Valley, 1309

Ararat (for Great Western, Vic) 1335

Coonawarra, SA 1337

Pemberton, WA 1394

Canberra, ACT 1424

Mornington, Vic 1427

Geelong, Vic 1457

Barossa Valley, SA 1525

Margaret River, WA 1529

Rutherglen, Vic 1567

Bendigo,Vic 1579

Strathalbyn, SA 1592

Clare, SA 1594

Young, NSW 1649

Mudgee, NSW 1704

Stanthorpe, Qld 1704

Cowra, NSW 1719

Merbein (for Mildura, Vic) 1753

Berri, SA 1756

Griffith, NSW 1756

Perth (Swan Valley) WA 1818

Jerry’s Plains (Hunter Valley, NSW) 1851*

These figures should be seen merely as a starting point. The actual growing conditions on individual sites can make a huge difference. For example north-facing slopes will be warmer, the local topography moderates the effects of hot winds, sloping sites are less prone to frosts, and so the list goes on.

The heat summation scales do not take into account other factors considered important, such as the daily variation in temperature, the number of sunshine hours and the relative humidity. Selecting a good site for a vineyard takes all of these factors into account.

Once a site is selected care is needed to use appropriate grape varieties. The time taken for grapes is a characteristic of different varieties. For example in Rutherglen early varieties may be picked in mid February, while later varieties will need until the end of March.

In cool areas only early ripening varieties are feasible. Late ripening varieties will not ripen at all if planted in a cool area.

Conversely in hot areas late ripening varieties are preferred. These will ripen slowly in the autumn. Early varieties can be grown in warm climates but as the grapes ripen in the hottest part of summer a balance between acid, sugar, flavour compounds and tannins is impossible to achieve.


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